Correct Hamilton Standard Prop Decals for Early 1930s?
Tue Apr 12, 2016 9:09 am
I need to put new prop decals on my Hamilton Standard ground adjustable prop and trying to determine which ones are correct for the early 1930s?
The airplane is a 1933 Waco. There seem to be HS decals that say Hartford, East Hartford, Windsor Locks and some that don't list any location. I am pretty sure I don't want the Windsor Locks ones since that plant wasn't opened up until the 1950s.
Any propeller historians know which decals were used in which years?
The airplane is a 1933 Waco. There seem to be HS decals that say Hartford, East Hartford, Windsor Locks and some that don't list any location. I am pretty sure I don't want the Windsor Locks ones since that plant wasn't opened up until the 1950s.
Any propeller historians know which decals were used in which years?
Re: Correct Hamilton Standard Prop Decals for Early 1930s?
Tue Apr 12, 2016 9:21 am
Is your prop subject to a periodic mag inspection AD? If so, you may want to either skip the decal, or be sure to get a lot of them.
Re: Correct Hamilton Standard Prop Decals for Early 1930s?
Tue Apr 12, 2016 11:29 am
What's the reason one (inspection) leads to the other (lots of decals)? I just don't know how this works, is why I'm asking.
Re: Correct Hamilton Standard Prop Decals for Early 1930s?
Tue Apr 12, 2016 12:14 pm
shrike wrote:Is your prop subject to a periodic mag inspection AD? If so, you may want to either skip the decal, or be sure to get a lot of them.
If you are referring to the 5 year AD that I have to do for the props on the Beech 18, no, I don't believe that applies to this prop. I'll have to double check to make sure, but either way, the decals are pretty cheap.
Re: Correct Hamilton Standard Prop Decals for Early 1930s?
Tue Apr 12, 2016 7:08 pm
Actually I was thinking as much of the Stearman MacCauleys as anything else. They have an AD calling for mag particle inspection every 100 flight hours.
Doing the mpi (Magnaflux) involves stripping the paint from the blade. Theoretically you could strip just the root for inspection and the tip for electrical contact for bare-bones compliance, but a) you should check the whole blade for cracks, and b) the mag particle fluid stains the paint and messes up decals making touch up more of a pain than just repainting the whole blade.
Doing the mpi (Magnaflux) involves stripping the paint from the blade. Theoretically you could strip just the root for inspection and the tip for electrical contact for bare-bones compliance, but a) you should check the whole blade for cracks, and b) the mag particle fluid stains the paint and messes up decals making touch up more of a pain than just repainting the whole blade.
Re: Correct Hamilton Standard Prop Decals for Early 1930s?
Wed Apr 13, 2016 4:43 am
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272197311275
I just did an eBay search for Hamilton Standard propeller decal, and there are ones for 1927-31, 1931-39, 1939-52 and 1952-69.
I just did an eBay search for Hamilton Standard propeller decal, and there are ones for 1927-31, 1931-39, 1939-52 and 1952-69.
Re: Correct Hamilton Standard Prop Decals for Early 1930s?
Wed Apr 13, 2016 9:05 am
rcaf_100 wrote:http://www.ebay.com/itm/272197311275
I just did an eBay search for Hamilton Standard propeller decal, and there are ones for 1927-31, 1931-39, 1939-52 and 1952-69.
Perfect, Thank You!
So, it would appear I need the Hartford ones for the Waco and the Winsdor Locks version for my G18S. Thanks!
Re: Correct Hamilton Standard Prop Decals for Early 1930s?
Wed Apr 13, 2016 11:03 am
shrike wrote:Actually I was thinking as much of the Stearman MacCauleys as anything else. They have an AD calling for mag particle inspection every 100 flight hours.
Doing the mpi (Magnaflux) involves stripping the paint from the blade. Theoretically you could strip just the root for inspection and the tip for electrical contact for bare-bones compliance, but a) you should check the whole blade for cracks, and b) the mag particle fluid stains the paint and messes up decals making touch up more of a pain than just repainting the whole blade.
Thanks Shrike, I learned something new. Today is a success!