Warbird Information Exchange

Alright guys,

Looking for companies people have used for ordering their stencils from. We will be painting everything rather than using decals so need to find a place to order good quality stencils from. Our largest is the wing insignias which are approx 62in high by 124in wide.

Two wings insignias
Two fuselage insignias
two tail serials
Two tail codes
Two fuselage squadron codes
Nose squadron code
nose serial number
serial block
Two civilian tail numbers

and then the stencils for our mission symbols
Glider tow
Parapack drop
Medical evac
Supply train

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Tyler Pinkerton
Active Member of Air Heritage Inc. of Beaver Falls, PA.
Aircraft: C47B, C-123K, Fairchild F-24, Funk Model B, L-21B, T-28B, T-34B
Static: F-4C Phantom II, F-15A, T-3 Provost

Putting my "Used to do this stuff for a living" hat on.
Tasking tape, string, big rulers and patience.

While you could get stencils cut for the national insignia, you'll spend more time and effort getting them assembled, laid out and corrected than it would take to just lay them out in place with tape. That's the way it's shown in most of the factory photos I've seen. It also seems to be most common to paint the blue first and white over it, which is contrary to common sense and practice, but prototypical.

Ditto all of the squadron codes, they would have been done at base level upon arrival.

Tail serial numbers and N-numbers are small enough that computer cut masking is easy as well as being close to original (frisket masked serials seem to be common) Any local sign shop that cuts vinyl can do this for you, just do you homework on fonts.

There are several people here than can do oilboard stencils for the data block, or that could be computer cut as well

For mission markings, cut a cardboard stencil, trace it on the airplane in pencil and paint them in by hand. For extra credit, use more than one pot of paint and more than one person with a brush. Spray paint in rattle cans is a post-war invention.

One final thought on stenciling - production not perfection. If it's legible, it's good enough, there's a war on get it out the door and move on.

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Lest Hero-worship raise it's head and cloud our vision, remember that World War II was fought and won by the same sort of twenty-something punks we wouldn't let our daughters date.

You can always try Nigel at Flightline Graphics, he's supplied stencils to projects your side of the pond many a time and he's very reasonable cost-wise

Tom

Under 1" numbering and we use stencils, everything else is done by layout and tape. For the stars and bars that we use the most often, we have poster board layouts to draw around. for anything bigger than a 24" star, it's just easier to hand lay it out. Since you are going to paint them, layout the stars and bars and paint them first. Then you have minimal masking to bring color up to the bars. White, then the blue then the red., mask it all over and then do the restof the wing.

I suggest locating a sign shop in your area that has a large vinyl cutting machine. I'm sure they would be willing to help you with what ever stencils you need cut, just provide them with your specs.

The stencils will have to be cut out of Spray Mask film. This product is designed to be used as stencil material for painting, and is easily removed after the work is done, without leaving any adhesive on the surface. It is also a lot easier to apply, being more forgiving. When trying to get the film to adhere around rivets, if firmly pressing down several times does not do the trick, use a heat gun on the lowest setting, and warm the film a little, until it sticks.

Do not use regular vinyl for sign making, unless it is a last resort. It is a pain to remove, will leave adhesive all over the surface, is very hard to remove, and might ruin the paint surface or design that was applied. If you absolutely have to use regular vinyl, apply a very light coat of baby powder, so that the adhesive does not completely stick to the surface. This method does not produce the best results, and more than likely, the paint edges will be rough.

In some areas, you will have to lay out the design by hand. A seamstress measuring tape works best, due to it being able to measure around curves. For marking, or drawing on the surface, a china marker works ok, but Stabilo marking pencils (black or white) work best, and the marks are easily removed with a wet cloth.


I've been a pinstriper / sign / custom automotive painter for nearly 30yrs, and used to layout everything by hand. A friend of mine, who owns a sign shop that produces vinyl signs, talked me into using Spray Mask for my painted designs, and I rarely layout by hand anymore. If a more authentic look is desired while using the Spray Mask, use a brush instead of a paint gun, also using the stencil more as a guide, without applying paint on the edges.

Hope this helps.

What he said. Scale it out, measure it, mark it, and tape it. If it passes the 10 foot test, it's good. I have painted many markings. No two aircraft are the same, just as no two aircraft use the same rivets. If you need any help, there are many here who would gladly lend advice

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In California? Stop by and visit us!
Castle Air Museum

Hire someone to do it, that way when the paint people start on the results you have way out, I told that guy it was wrong.

I see what you did there.

Just don't over-do them ...

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“Knowing what’s right, doesn’t mean much unless you do what’s right.”

When I needed a complete a/c stencil kit I went to our aircraft overhaul and repair depot. They have a shop that makes them for most USCG aircraft. With that said....maybe try one of the aircraft manufacture graphics depts. They maybe able to do some CGG kits for what you're looking for.

I had to get a new manufacture emblem for one of my boats years ago. I took a color pic of the emblem out of a fishing magazine advertisement and went to a local graphics store. They scanned the advertisement, blew up the boat logo and made a real nice duplicate sticker for my boat. You maybe able to do something similar for stencils??

Oh wow,
YEP DO IT BY HAND ON THE AIRCRAFT!!! Really not that hard just takes time.
If you need oil board stencils for lettering and your drops / freight runs for the score board.................I can do

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Long Live the N3N-3 "The Last US Military Bi-Plane" 1940-1959
Badmouthing Stearmans on WIX since 2005

It is a matter of personal opinion but I think the oil board stencils with feathered edges look better than vinyl masks or stick on decals.

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https://www.facebook.com/groups/2282629 ... ref=SEARCH

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1062859 ... 8743408401

Imagine that, no spelling mistakes.

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Long Live the N3N-3 "The Last US Military Bi-Plane" 1940-1959
Badmouthing Stearmans on WIX since 2005

Always prefer paint to decals. We do markings by hand, lettering by oil board stencil. Looks better, and lasts much longer.

_________________
In California? Stop by and visit us!
Castle Air Museum