Second Air Force wrote:
I appreciate the info Jeff. Gillespie was the paint company I was leaning toward from the earlier research I did. I'll PM you soon about the stencil information. We're fortunate to have the equipment number to make a direct copy of but the rest of the stenciling has deteriorated completely.
As to your idea about the seats, I'm planning to make runners that fasten to the deck planking in the same position that the bomb rails/holders normally go. That way we can pull up the seats and put the bomb rails on to have a complete trailer without any extraneous brackets or mountings. The scheme is to be able to convert to/from one configuration to the other in just a matter of minutes.
Thanks for preserving the military vehicles--my dad was in a maintenance battalion with the 1st Armored Division from North Africa to the end of the war in the Po Valley. I don't know why I never got as interested in the fighting vehicles as I did aircraft, but I imagine dad would smile looking at all the equipment being restored and preserved.
Scott
With gillespie paint, you will be allright. I dont know about that porus paint in OD. Off hand, I dont know the WW2 paint chip. I do know you dont want the late WW2 semigloss. My M37 is painted with that.
When your ready for primer, dont cheap out there. PPG made a really good 2 part epoxy primer back in the 90's but I have not worked with that since then. I will say this tho. On my trucks, I use Rustolium Rusty Metal Primer. Get a bunch of that and put on a REALLY GOOD COAT and you will be fine. All my trucks stay outdoors 5 months of that covered with snow. I think you will be ok, the worst you might get out of Texas is a fade in the paint a bit sooner. That I am told will cure a touch of hardner but I have never done it myself.
WHAT EVER YOU DO....................DONT USE AVEROE PAINT!!!!! It will turn a chalky white within 2 yrs and it will look like HELL.
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Long Live the N3N-3 "The Last US Military Bi-Plane" 1940-1959
Badmouthing Stearmans on WIX since 2005
