Not sure, anybody interested?

[shrike]

so for the mechanically disinclined . . what do you use a Snoopy tool for?

Tom P.

It's for operating Dzus type cowling fasteners on aircraft made after October 4, 1950.

Before that date, it would be a Mickey Mouse tool <G>

[sdennison]

Tom P. it is a dzus button wrench....

[Rod Schneider]

Tom P. it is a dzus button wrench....

And it works well! I used mine today while doing some work on the "Movie Memphis Belle".

[Mark Allen M]

Always looking out for ya Scott ...

Happy New Year!!!


Photo states: P-47 60th FS 33rd FG (what do you think? getting closer?)

[sdennison]

Always looking out for ya Scott ...

Happy New Year!!!


Photo states: P-47 60th FS 33rd FG (what do you think? getting closer?)

Right on, Tyrone! Here's what I have...only one. ADF antennas match. Thank Mark and Happy New Year to you, my Friend.

[sdennison]

I have been struggling with thisTH55A horizontal stabilizer for ever. The skin is 2024-T3 .016" and has strengthening ribs as there are no internal ribs to the structure. Forming these ribs has driven me crazy. So, based on a lot of input from my metalsmith friends, I came up with this die design for my Pullmax. This way I can form the bead and close the ends in one operation. Still won't be easy but Ithink it will work.

I am pre-stretcing on the English wheel with a 1/2" radius lower wheel. The attached photos have more detailed explanations. Not out of the woods yet but close.

Here is the die. I can run the bead without the end closing sections in place, then close each end separately.


Obviously, this would close off the left end bead. By rotating the left side down and running to the end of the right side, I swing that side up and close the bead.



This would form the bead itself.



Pre stretching on the wheel. I have a laser set up to aid with start stop points.



These are sample pieces to establish process. I lay out a line to run the edge of the upper wheel.



The small laser beam is the actual, the bright one is reflected off the piece.



Forming the bead I found it necessary to control the material against the fence so the angle keeps the thin material from folding up and messing up the bead.



Close. I have tried a number of pre-stretch processes to see how much is needed to keep any distortion to a minimum. Still would like to massage the close offs and the more samples I did, the better they got.

[Randy Haskin]

I love to see one of the oldest metal-working rigs combined with a laser.

[Mark Allen M]

Another photo to add to the collection (if you haven't already got this one)

M

[sdennison]

Another photo to add to the collection (if you haven't already got this one)

M

Thanks Mark. Can never have enough CBI info.

[sdennison]

Continuing the TH55A horizontal stab skin project...we hit the Pullmax for real.





This is the skin deformed after the English wheel. After going through the Pullmax and forming the beads, the panel flattens out nicely.




Next, to the Chalkie press I built specifically for this job and others. The skin gets centered on the press bed.


I had made samples to determine the press stopping point.


As the lower tray is pressed upwards, the skin is pressed into the neoprene trough.



Now fitting begins.

[DH82EH]

Well you've gotta be happy with that!

Really sweet.

This has been quite the multi step challenge.

Andy

[Bentwings]

Scott, sorry to hear about your son. I was hoping to learn a lot of the sheet metal trade from my father but I lost him in August. I must say that your work is very impressive. I believe I read earlier that you are going to make the ribs that the intercoolers mount to for the corsair. If you need measurements I have a set that is not in an airplane. Again, sorry to hear of your loss. God Bless.
Bill

[Randy Haskin]

Such awesome looking work, Scott!

[flypa38]

I probably missed the reason, but why would a "regular" bead roller not work in this instance? I have very little metalwork experience but a lot of interest in learning.

[sdennison]

Probably could if you get enough pre stretch prior to rolling. That was my first attempt but distorted too much. With the bead roller you still face the challenge of closing the bead nicely.