Tue Aug 18, 2009 3:28 pm
ahhh the dreaded double post!!!
Last edited by the330thbg on Wed Aug 19, 2009 7:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
Tue Aug 18, 2009 8:15 pm
I get my decal paper from:
http://www.beldecal.com/
Good stuff.
Oh, and "the330thbg" good luck. Those decals cannot be beat if you can find the printer. And it is not compatible with any system newer than XP.
I used the Alps for the kits I produced.
Now the cartridges are getting hard to find.
http://www.beldecal.com/
Good stuff.
Oh, and "the330thbg" good luck. Those decals cannot be beat if you can find the printer. And it is not compatible with any system newer than XP.
I used the Alps for the kits I produced.
Now the cartridges are getting hard to find.
Sun Aug 23, 2009 5:24 pm
OK, here is the process and the final result!
What I started with, a Harvard 4 Flap Ratchet Valve (and yes, I used that photo!):
Here's the contents of the Testors kit I bought at the local hobby shop for $10.18 USD (There was a small CD in the kit not shown that had some public domain art and a license plate maker, but you needed to pay to download an application that could use pictures. It was useless if you ask me since I already had basic Photoshop):
I enhanced the above Flap Ratchet Valve image in Photoshop like so:
Here they are printed out from my HP Deskjet 970Cse along with a paper copy of the "before":
Next I applied two coats of the fixer spray included in the kit:
I'm guessing we all already know how to apply waterslide decals, so on to the final result:
On a scale of 1 to 10, I'd call the result a 7 for the following reasons...
1. The inkjet printer didn't make the blacks black enough. The result was mottled rather than jet black. The inkjet didn't cover 100%. I think this is the way that the decal paper took the ink. The fixer spray had no effect on this result.
2. The decals, once installed had a bunch of small bubbles underneath I couldn't work out with a soft brush.
3. The yellow was too orange. Had I done a better job photographing it and spent more time in Photoshop I probably could have fixed this. Inadequate planning on my part since I didn't really decide to try this until I had already stripped the original decals off. By then I had to work with the photo I had which wasn't even taken exactly normal to the surface of the part!
It was an interesting project and I might do it again some time in another area of the plane. I don't think that the result is really crisp enough to put on a model though. Maybe with a better printer or using another process on a laserjet printer?
Any comments or hints would be appreciated!
If anyone wants my remaining decal they are welcome to it (A2C?). First one to send me a PM gets it!
What I started with, a Harvard 4 Flap Ratchet Valve (and yes, I used that photo!):
Here's the contents of the Testors kit I bought at the local hobby shop for $10.18 USD (There was a small CD in the kit not shown that had some public domain art and a license plate maker, but you needed to pay to download an application that could use pictures. It was useless if you ask me since I already had basic Photoshop):
I enhanced the above Flap Ratchet Valve image in Photoshop like so:
Here they are printed out from my HP Deskjet 970Cse along with a paper copy of the "before":
Next I applied two coats of the fixer spray included in the kit:
I'm guessing we all already know how to apply waterslide decals, so on to the final result:
On a scale of 1 to 10, I'd call the result a 7 for the following reasons...
1. The inkjet printer didn't make the blacks black enough. The result was mottled rather than jet black. The inkjet didn't cover 100%. I think this is the way that the decal paper took the ink. The fixer spray had no effect on this result.
2. The decals, once installed had a bunch of small bubbles underneath I couldn't work out with a soft brush.
3. The yellow was too orange. Had I done a better job photographing it and spent more time in Photoshop I probably could have fixed this. Inadequate planning on my part since I didn't really decide to try this until I had already stripped the original decals off. By then I had to work with the photo I had which wasn't even taken exactly normal to the surface of the part!
It was an interesting project and I might do it again some time in another area of the plane. I don't think that the result is really crisp enough to put on a model though. Maybe with a better printer or using another process on a laserjet printer?
Any comments or hints would be appreciated!
If anyone wants my remaining decal they are welcome to it (A2C?). First one to send me a PM gets it!
Sun Aug 23, 2009 8:33 pm
bdk wrote:2. The decals, once installed had a bunch of small bubbles underneath I couldn't work out with a soft brush.
To get rid of the bubbles, the best way is to use Microscale's "Microsol" also available at most hobby stores.
To remove the bubbles, carefully slice into the bubble with an X-acto knife with a brand new blade. Apply a little Microsol and press down with a Q-tip. The bubbles should disapear.
Warning: Once you apply the Microsol and remove the bubbles, DO NOT touch the decal until it dries. Like the name implies, Microsol contains a solvent designed to help the decal 'snuggle down' over surface details. If you touch it, it will smear and ruin the decal.
There is also a product called Solvaset that does the same thing, but is much stronger. It also comes in a bigger bottle (and is more expensive), so for your project Microsol should fit the bill.
Hope this helps a bit.
Sun Aug 23, 2009 8:53 pm
don't forget to seal the decal if you want it to last, put some clear paint over it.
Sun Aug 23, 2009 10:46 pm
I am aware of those products although I have never used them. I was afraid that they might not be compatible with the chemistry of the "do it yourself" decals. I figured little bubbles were better than having to run the risk of doing it over.rcaf_100 wrote:To get rid of the bubbles, the best way is to use Microscale's "Microsol" also available at most hobby stores.
Matt, I did in fact spray clear over the final product after the decals were applied.
I appreciate the suggestions!
Maybe if I do this again I'll be a little more scientific about it.
Mon Aug 24, 2009 7:51 pm
Looks good for what you had to work with.
A little polishing and a gloss coat before the decal is applied will also help with the bubbles.
Micro-set and micro-sol are very good products, but a smooth surface is the best.
When I do large decals like that, I use clear decal film and put the decal onto white vinyl, or white plastic sticker paper (like the stuff for R/C planes). Then apply the sticker to the part.
As for the non-covering black, it could of had to do with the printer settings.
Glad to see the Testor kit worked, some day I will have to convert to the ink jet system.
A little polishing and a gloss coat before the decal is applied will also help with the bubbles.
Micro-set and micro-sol are very good products, but a smooth surface is the best.
When I do large decals like that, I use clear decal film and put the decal onto white vinyl, or white plastic sticker paper (like the stuff for R/C planes). Then apply the sticker to the part.
As for the non-covering black, it could of had to do with the printer settings.
Glad to see the Testor kit worked, some day I will have to convert to the ink jet system.
Mon Aug 24, 2009 8:56 pm
As an alternative to Micro-Set, try Future floor covering. Brush a thin coat on just before applying the decal, apply as normal, then leave it alone for 24 hours. If you haven't tried it, you won't believe how well it works.
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