AT-6B Static Restoration - Chanute Air Museum

[Mustanger55]

Doing some cleanup and touch up on the control shelf today and wondered if anyone knows the correct color(s) for the Purolator Hydraulic Filter? The one in our T-6 was painted red, but don't recall seeing any other hydraulics painted that way.

Any help Appreciated

[Mustanger55]

With the control shelf on the bench, I'm taking the time to do some minor repairs and paint touch-ups. The step support bracket had some corrosion and was bead blasted and repainted first. Then all of the handle knobs received fresh paint after which I began touching up the lettering on the handles and trim wheels. The shelf is in fairly decent shape and just requires a bit of cleaning and a few spots touched up. Also repaired was the dynometer and Purolator hydraulic filter, although I have yet to determine what color the filter is supposed to be. Also on the list is recreating the placards for the shelf. I'm going to take a crack at printing placards onto aluminum sheet with an inkjet printer, and will report the results later.




Calling back to the ongoing saga of the true identity of this airframe, the control shelf turns out to be another wild card. The assembly number is 88-52506, which makes it applicable for an AT-6C/SNJ-4 or later. This plane is supposed to be an AT-6B. Another clue came when removing the flap speed warning placard. Beneath the reproduction placard, the original lists maximum speed for flaps as 110 Knots, making it likely the shelf is from and SNJ?

Still trying to find out the appropriate color for the Purolator hydraulic filter that is attached to the control shelf. Any help appreciated.

[Mustanger55]

Continuing work on the control shelf this weekend. Painting the lettering on the trim wheels and handles became too difficult due to the build up of old paint on the lettering surfaces, so I'm taking all of them down to the metal before re-priming and hand painting them. I'm also working on control shelf placards. Most of the original, damaged placards had reproductions printed on thin aluminum glued over the originals. In the second pic is the original placard at top and the reproduction at bottom. Third picture shows a working template for the reproduction I'm making.
During down time the instrument panels were bead blasted, primed and the base coat of black applied. These have a lot of nicks and dents so the final finish will be a finely textured flat black that will hide most of the imperfections. Original placards are covered and will be kept wherever possible.

[Ken]

Wow, nice work!

[Mustanger55]

Attempts to get an older printer of ours to print onto thin aluminum proved unworkable, so I'll have to find some metallic finish paper or cardstock to make overlays for the originals, gluing them down to aluminum backing. The labels are prepared with a CAD program to assure the lettering and lines are crisp. I still have to test print some of these and compare them directly with the originals.
The only actual work completed this weekend was finish painting the instrument panels which will be installed later.

[shrike]

You should be able to find someone locally to laser etch those onto aluminium.
Google is you friend here, and you may be able to just send them your files, depending on format

[Mustanger55]

Hmmm! Good Idea. Will have to research local companies. Thanks!

[Mustanger55]

Have been stuck at home this last week with health issues so no museum visit this weekend. Spent some down time researching for printing stock that might replicate the black-on-metal placards for the cockpit, and found a product called "Silhouette Printable Silver Foil" at a craft supplier that appears to have promise.

It is eight 8.5X11 sheets of thin, adhesive backed silver foil used to make fancy canning labels. I had trouble feeding it through my printer and expect it would work better in a printer with a flat-feed option. The black ink didn't come out as dark as I'd like, but the results are marginally better than other options. At just $10 US, it just may be a cheap way of creating some of the placards I need.

The photo doesn't show the metallic finish well, but it is a smooth finish that is not too "chrome" looking.

[Mustanger55]

Despite medical issues, managed a couple of hours at the shop today. A new friend of the project is supplying many of the instruments needed to outfit the cockpit of the T-6. Sam from Wichita has sent us some hard to find gauges that are in good condition, either like new or easily refurbished.
The Texan Project is only funded by donations and donations of parts like these are usually tax deductible since they are being given to the Chanute Air Museum, a 503 (c) (3) non-profit. Like many non-profit organizations, the museum is feeling the effects of the poor economy and the project is being done at no cost to the museum.
Here are some of the instruments just received. Thanks Sam!!!!

[Mustanger55]

Was able to spend a longer day in the shop today, and managed to get nearly all of the markings done on the control shelf. Lettering on the trim wheels and control handles were done by hand, and reproduction placards were installed. Next up is installing new LG and Flap indicator arms before reinstalling the control shelf back on the Texan.

[B45]

Hi Norm,
Looking really good. Quick question. On the landing gear, is that colouring of half the lever knob with red the norm?
Cheers,
Mike

[Mustanger55]

The knob was previously painted half red and half a darker green than the chromate finish on the handle. I just repainted what was already there. I found a reference to the paint coloring on drawing numbers 55-33507 and 55-33512, but these are for the earlier? grip. Based on those, the colors on mine may be backwards.
I haven't tracked down the large knobs on any drawings as of yet.

[Mustanger55]

Had a really short day, just running down to Urbana to pick up paint for the T-6. Like the Mustang, I'll be using bright silver automotive paint, but this time will be opting for a less glossy finish.

Need a bit of sage advise.
I was trying to work out how to reinstall the LG and Flap Indicators, but it seems I need at least one more hand than what came as original equipment. The little barbs on the indicators have to go in 90 degrees from normal then rotating them into alignment with washers between each, and each has to be placed individually before the shaft can be installed.
Is there a tip or trick to stacking and spacing the indicators without them tumbling apart? So far, I've had no luck. I have the shelf on the bench, so can rotate it any way necessary. I'm just not smart enough to figure it out. I know I'm missing something obvious.
Any help appreciated!!

[Mustanger55]

No trips to the museum as of late. This weekend we were taking care of our dog who got hold of something toxic which caused some liver damage. Spent four days at the hospital and then appeared to relapse once back home. A week and a half and nearly a $1,000 later, it looks as if he'll make a full recovery.

For those of you that are dog owners, take a good look at everything you are feeding your pet. If it comes from China, or somewhere else suspect, throw it out! If in doubt, ask your vet.
Sorry for the off-topic comments.

[Mustanger55]

Been too long since I've been able to make it to the museum, but happy to be back and getting a few things done. I finally remade the overlay for the Flap and Landing Gear placard, changing it to black on metal instead of black and white. With the panel done, I installed the Flap and LG Position Indicators in place. The original radium tips were replaced with brass washers and pearl painted round headed rivets to give an original appearance.
One of many small side projects was creating a couple of 8-Day clocks for the two instrument panels. With examples going for two to three hundred dollars each online, I've chosen to create my own. Using some leftover bezels and bodies from disposed gauges, I've made these for the Texan. The faces were made up with a CAD program and printed on photo paper.
Spent the rest of the time beginning the sanding and priming of the left side fuselage panel, removing the buzz numbers and old markings and priming for silver paint. Still hopeful that there will be time to sand and prime the fuselage before winter sets in.