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When Hollywood Ruled The Skies - Volumes 1 through 4 by Bruce Oriss


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 8:34 pm 
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I sent my T-6 fuselage over to the painter to have the center section and baggage compartment painted. While it's there, I figured we ought to strip the wing since we will temporarily have the space available.

Here we are starting to strip the paint off the left wing...

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I want to polish my T-6 (eventually) and found this under the paint when we started to strip the wing...

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Anyone have any hints on how to polish this turd? Maybe start with 40 grit on a body grinder? Hmmmm... I hope that doesn't leave a mark in the polish job!

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What's all this then (he says in a Monty Python accent)? What kind of paint stripper is that again Mike? Kind of agressive, isn't it???!

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Note how the cracks in this fine piece of repair workmanship were stop drilled! That'll keep the cracks from growing fer sure!

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So that's where that missing access cover went!

What kind of sh!thead does something like this? I already replaced some skins and stiffeners on the other wing where a line of rivets started to disappear and then mysteriously reappeared. There was also a hole plugged in the vertical stabilizer in the same fashion.

Well, once again, two steps forward (the center section paint job) and one step backwards. :? The wing was NOS and had original paint, except for that area. Once again my trust in mankind has been further cemented.

Now you know why I've been in a bad mood all week...


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 9:12 pm 
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Man, that is some really bad sheetmetal work....If you can even call it that!
If you are serious about polishing the ole girl out....Everyone I know that used the Nuvite system has raved about it. Excellent results and top quality products with a polisher that will last forever. When the polished KC-135s were maintained with this, they really looked good by using the dual head polisher....
http://www.nuvitechemical.com/

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 9:44 pm 
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I maintain two polished warbirds. My best advice is to PAINT IT.
If you still have to polish it, do a search for NUVITE. They have the best products and real good instructions.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 9:47 pm 
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These guys seem pretty popular, have not tried them yet myself:

http://www.perfectpolish.com/

And yeah, paint it unlesss you have talented cheap labour to keep the polishing up - it's a real bitch!

:lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 9:52 pm 
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Now you've went and done it. You said it was NOS and if North American wouldn't have put that filler there if they didn't want it there. Now you will never have an original warbird. I have some original WWII Bondo that is NOS in a sealed can and baggie that you can buy and put that fine looking patch back on so it will be original. Not cheap, but worth the price to keep it real!


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 10:45 pm 
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Obergrafeter wrote:
Now you've went and done it. You said it was NOS and if North American wouldn't have put that filler there if they didn't want it there. Now you will never have an original warbird. I have some original WWII Bondo that is NOS in a sealed can and baggie that you can buy and put that fine looking patch back on so it will be original. Not cheap, but worth the price to keep it real!
Man, I guess I screwed up removing that filler!

I've got some old flap skins from a belly landing I'm going to cut into thin strips to use as welding rod to fill those holes with my MiG welder. Then I'll fill the dent using those strips as body solder with a MAPP gas torch . This company sells some flux that should work so it will stick: http://www.superiorflux.com/braz_alum_flux.html Then I can file everything down smooth and polish it back up. It will be 100% authentic metal that way. Even the most demanding Anorak will be pleased.

I've already got a Cyclo polisher and some Nuvite.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 2:16 am 
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I believe I'd be doing some really in depth investigation of whats behind that Tiajuana overhaul, because what you can't see now could be uglier than nude coleslaw wrestling! :shock:
Then resign yourself to either replacing the entire panel or doing some really first quality doubler and flush patch work. It appears in the photos to be on the leading edge of the wing, isn't the leading edge cuff pretty straightforward to replace because every T-6 racer has flush leading edges-Depending on where it is on the span, you could partially mask a repair with a chordwise stripe- :wink:

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 Post subject: darn
PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 6:45 am 
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Makes me shake my head with fear seeing stuff like that in tinwork.Check the manuals as there should be repair schemes for such damage in them.If not a good sheety will do a proper doubler repair that will make it just as good if not better than the original section.Find the idiot who did the bodge work and hit him repeatedly with something solid.(Just a suggestion)
For polishing,don,t wear good clothes,have plenty of soft cotton rags closeby,old sheets and Tshirts are good and don,t polish near edges of skins.Don,t have the speed to high and keep moving the mop so the metal doesn,t warp with the heat buildup.Oh and it,s a biatch of a job :shock:

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 7:59 am 
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My best advise on polishing is................GET SOMEONE ELSE TO DO IT. :shock: :D :D :D :D :D :D
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Robbie 8)

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 10:46 am 
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Brandon come on. If it was easy everyone would be doing it.
I'll send my son to polish it as seen here;
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What you are finding is one reason that we have gone to this level of work of Enchantress.
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Rich


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 11:03 am 
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Robbie Stuart wrote:
My best advise on polishing is................GET SOMEONE ELSE TO DO IT. :shock: :D :D :D :D :D :D
Robbie 8)


What Robbie said


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 11:49 am 
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If you’re serious about it, I would ditch the cyclo polisher and invest around $500 in a used flexible shaft polisher. Just watch that you don’t oil can the skin with too much heat.

One time we had a polishing party weekend with the SNJ and got most of the aircraft done with a good supply of towels, Simichrome, flour, burgers, hot dogs, pop, and beer.

I’m traveling right now, but when I get back I’ll post the name of a bottle of polish that I have at the hangar. Works even better than Simichrome.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 4:07 pm 
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The Inspector wrote:
Then resign yourself to either replacing the entire panel or doing some really first quality doubler and flush patch work. It appears in the photos to be on the leading edge of the wing, isn't the leading edge cuff pretty straightforward to replace because every T-6 racer has flush leading edges-Depending on where it is on the span, you could partially mask a repair with a chordwise stripe- :wink:
Didn't like my welding and aluminum soldering idea then?

I think I will be "inspecting" that entire leading edge skin onto my wall of shame sometime soon. All the rivets on the leading edge skins are flush. I need to take off the "access strip" on the bottom of the wing to take care of a few other small issues as well, so I'll take care of it then.

Robbie Stuart wrote:
My best advise on polishing is................GET SOMEONE ELSE TO DO IT. :shock:
I plan to! Want a ride? Start polishing- on the bottom...!!!! :twisted:

We have a few polished planes around here to get hints from (Les Whittlesey's Lockheed is one of them), but additional hints and tips are always welcome.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 4:20 pm 
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I'll pass, I have had enough time in T-6s over the yrs, 500+ hrs. I hate waxing my bikes, let alone polishing a plane.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 1:17 am 
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I don't think those holes are going to buff out...

I agree with the "get someone else to do it"

Robbie


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