Sun Jun 03, 2007 2:03 pm
Hi ,
A couple of layers of auto body spot glaze and a little sanding will fill in the rust pits and leave a nice smooth finish.
Thanks Mike
A couple of layers of auto body spot glaze and a little sanding will fill in the rust pits and leave a nice smooth finish.
Thanks Mike
Sun Jun 03, 2007 3:08 pm
Bio De-ruster anybody?
Any of you chaps tried any of the new alkaline bio de-ruster products?
Non acidic and doesn't burn the skin or eyes at all. I love it!
I use it all the time for restoring old (US) Stanley wood working planes etc..
ALL oxide will depart the base metal component after immersing for a very short time for surface corrosion or overnight for heavy expanded masses of oxide.
From my experience with mildly pitted cast iron and heavily oxide encrusted steel I can strongly recommend these products as they chelate the oxides from the base metal leaving solid virgin metal and will not attack good base metal no matter how long you leave them immersed.
You ideally need to immerse the component, but I have had good results with soaked sponges/paper towels onto larger components with cling film wrap to keep it moist. (fine if you are painting it anyway)
solution is re-usable many times.
Doesn't effect plastics, alloys, rubber, strip paint, plating or dull chrome.
Components come out of solution a dull overall grey colour.
Unlike other stabilising/converting products which retain surface and pitted oxide deposits, this product will take your component right back to bare metal and will expose any pits, which might not be visible by other methods.
If you are dipping a component overnight that will not be further dipped (i.e. a woodworking plane body for my purposes) make sure that the whole of the part is immersed, otherwise a 'tide mark' will annoyingly appear at the liquid level interface.
If you have a multi material assembly which is heavily corroded, seized and won't come apart, this is one of its finest applications. A lot less invasive than blasting and beats plus-gas soaking by a mile!
Well worth a try, but for potentially airworthy structural components, please investigate further for any potential for material property degradation of your parts, probably not an issue though, unlike electolysis and hydrogen embrittlement.
Any of you chaps tried any of the new alkaline bio de-ruster products?
Non acidic and doesn't burn the skin or eyes at all. I love it!
I use it all the time for restoring old (US) Stanley wood working planes etc..
ALL oxide will depart the base metal component after immersing for a very short time for surface corrosion or overnight for heavy expanded masses of oxide.
From my experience with mildly pitted cast iron and heavily oxide encrusted steel I can strongly recommend these products as they chelate the oxides from the base metal leaving solid virgin metal and will not attack good base metal no matter how long you leave them immersed.
You ideally need to immerse the component, but I have had good results with soaked sponges/paper towels onto larger components with cling film wrap to keep it moist. (fine if you are painting it anyway)
solution is re-usable many times.
Doesn't effect plastics, alloys, rubber, strip paint, plating or dull chrome.
Components come out of solution a dull overall grey colour.
Unlike other stabilising/converting products which retain surface and pitted oxide deposits, this product will take your component right back to bare metal and will expose any pits, which might not be visible by other methods.
If you are dipping a component overnight that will not be further dipped (i.e. a woodworking plane body for my purposes) make sure that the whole of the part is immersed, otherwise a 'tide mark' will annoyingly appear at the liquid level interface.
If you have a multi material assembly which is heavily corroded, seized and won't come apart, this is one of its finest applications. A lot less invasive than blasting and beats plus-gas soaking by a mile!
Well worth a try, but for potentially airworthy structural components, please investigate further for any potential for material property degradation of your parts, probably not an issue though, unlike electolysis and hydrogen embrittlement.
Mon Jun 04, 2007 6:43 pm
not rocket science considering the item...36 grit..No power tools..knock it down to shiny stuff..anything not shiny ..naval jelly and Bronze wool...100 grit after..no finer{ waste of time}...Pime and cover coat Rustoleum until it shines like niggers toe....done, my friend
Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:28 pm
like WHAT? 
Mon Jun 04, 2007 8:51 pm
muddyboots wrote:like WHAT?
He Ditnunt!! He Ditnunt GO THERE!! Reginald is either Black, or he's possibly of the "plantation" Von Gleason lineage.
Good Tip AndyG about the alkali de-ruster...I've been looking for an alternative
to acid etching. Thanks!
Wed Jun 06, 2007 12:18 am
something that good has just GOT to make your teeth fall out and your fingernails turn black...