Preserving signed items

[PbyCat-Guy]

I have a toy B-29 "Enola Gay" that both Tibbets and Van Kirk autographed, as well as a model of "Bud" Anderson's P-51 in OD that he autographed. Was wondering if there is a way to preserve these since they're signed with Sharpie Fine Tip marker. Like a sealer or clear coat of some sort. i've been keeping them in a dark plastic bag (like certain DVDs are put into after being purchased ) and out of sunlight as much as possible.
-PBY

Would like to keep them as momentos to hand down to my kids and grandkids if I ever have any, as a way to show that these guys were real.

[tom d. friedman]

i don't know anything about a coating or preservative, but i can tell you that direct sunlight, or direct electrical light will over time fade those sigs. display them away from those fading sources.

[Hawkeye]

I'd be curious as well, I've got a die-cast metal spitfire signed by good old Charlie Fox in black sharpie which I would like to keep preserved.

[Shay]

If it's flat signed media. I'd make and frame a copy. Keeping the Original safe and sound.

Regarding stuff that isn't flat. Modelers use Future Floor Wax to seal paint and decals in. It's clear and drys smooth. Some guys paint it on, dip it or spray it on. That's what I'd do.








Shay
____________
Semper Fortis

[Django]

But is Future UV resistant?

[APG85]

I would do some CAREFUL research before putting ANYTHING on an autograph. You would be surprised what will smear a supposedly permanent marker and what will ruin or de-value a signed item. Some things are better left alone and kept out of direct light. A bookcase shelf away from a window and away from overhead lighting is a good place. Just my opinion...

[DB2]

I would also be interested to know what you find out. I have a print "Duel of Eagles" signed by Douglas Bader and Adolf Galland...with a friggin' felt tip pen. I have it stored now as I am very afraid of the signatures fading.

[retroaviation]

I'm interested in how to save the signatures as well. I have this picture that was signed by all of the Lockheed test pilots that flew the XP-38 Lightning, including Tony LeVeir (barely seen in the upper, left corner), and the signatures are seemingly getting more and more faded.




Gary

[Fouga23]

But is Future UV resistant?

Future is UV resistant in that it doesn't yellow with age. That is why we modelers use it to clearcoat our models. It also works wonders for canopies. Makes those little plastic buggers look as clear as real glass!

[mjanovec]

Gary - That's a nice item. Is it displayed where it is exposed to light? Sunlight (direct or reflected) and flourescent lights seem to be the worst. But bright incandescent lighting isn't good either. If it's still fading, that tells me that it's current display location is likely harming the item. Also, if you don't have the item framed behind UV resistant glass, consider getting it re-framed.

Regarding the initial discussion that started this topic, I would NOT apply any sort of protective coating over the signatures on a model. There are too many unknowns...will it smear the signature, will it speed up the fading, will it react with the model's paint or plastic, etc. Baseball collectors used to shellac their signed baseballs in order to preserve the signatures. Often, the end result over time was a discolored ball that has significantly less value than a comparable ball without a shellac coating.

As for felt tip signatures on photos, the best advice is to make a copy and display that, keeping the original in an acid free sleeve (preferable mylar), stored in a dark (and dry) place. The stability of felt tip inks varies quite a bit from pen to pen. Some stand the test of time and some fade quite rapidly. It seems that black ink sharpies are the most stable of the modern pens...much more stable than the blues or reds. So if you're getting something signed today, consider black ink sharpies.

Mark

[Django]

Gary, you can get UV glass at Micheals or similar craft store that does framing. Just replace the glass.

[APG85]

Also, never use anything but ACID FREE matting and backing for your framed items. If you don't, your items will yellow over time. UV glass is also a must.

If you want an example of what shellac can do, take a look at The Spirit of St. Louis at the NASM. Decades ago the Smithsonian coated the cowlings with shellac/varnish as a way to preserve the stenceling and flags on the cowlings. Over time the cowlings turned yellow/gold. Most people now think that the SOSL has always had gold cowlings. In fact, some artists have even done paintings portraying the aircraft that way!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Spiri ... Louis2.jpg

[Zachary]

I would put the model in a UV-resistant acrylic display case versus coating it in any liquid. Johnson's Future floor wax is a great sealant for models, but I wouldn't recommend using it in this case. As for signed photos, etc., I would definitely recommend at the very least a mylar sleeve to put it in. Realizing that you probably do not want to hide the item away in a dry, dark, place, you can buy all kinds of archival display materials to house your signed items. Light Impressions is a fairly well-known archival supplies dealer:

http://www.lightimpressionsdirect.com/

Zack

[APG85]

I'm interested in how to save the signatures as well. I have this picture that was signed by all of the Lockheed test pilots that flew the XP-38 Lightning, including Tony LeVeir (barely seen in the upper, left corner), and the signatures are seemingly getting more and more faded.

Gary

Gary,
I would consider taking that to a professional framing place and having it framed. Because of it's condition, they would probably mount it for you (glue it to foam backing board) something you don't want to tackle on your own...

[tulsaboy]

At least in the museum world, putting any sort of clearcoat on top of a signature is an absolute no-no. There is little to no research on how such coatings will affect a particular pen on a particular surface over an extended period of time. As a consequence, the general rule is to store such things in a way that they are exposed to as little light as possible (and as practical, given that you want to enjoy your piece). Putting any chemical onto an artifact is something that is done only when absolutely necessary, and then only with chemicals that have been extensively tested and approved for that purpose. Otherwise, you take a real chance of long-term damage to your piece.

The other general rule is no restoration. Artifacts can be cleaned, but typically as little restoration as possible is done. Most curators and museums believe that artifacts stand the best chance of telling their story if they are displayed/preserved just as they were received from the donor, with as little modification done to them as necessary.

Just my two cents' worth.

kevin