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My tail-hook restoration, advice needed

Tue May 29, 2007 9:01 am

Ok, This is not going to be attached to any aircraft. I'll just get that out of the way.

As you can see by the pictures there is a lot of rust to deal with. I stripped of most of the paint and rust (I still have a little bit more to do). I'm going to prime it and paint for display.

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Does anyone have advice on how to remove the rust and prevent it from causing any more problems with the hook. The pitting is pretty deep and I want to make sure I can stabilize it before covering up with primer. Sorry but this is new ground for me and I want to make sure I'm doing it right or mostly right.

Tim

Tue May 29, 2007 9:07 am

Hi Tim,

Very cool project! :shock: What aircraft is it off from and were did you find it?

-Nathan

Tue May 29, 2007 9:11 am

Any good 2 component epoxy primer should prevent it from rusting..
I use a special primer that is used on metal shipdecks that sustain heavy wear on my oldtimer...
It is a sigma coatings product, I can look up the numbers if you like?
For removing rust, I had good results with vinegar on surface rust and for rustier areas I use molasses..

Christophe

Tue May 29, 2007 9:15 am

Tim,

Look into the rust inhibitors made by Eastwood.

http://www.eastwoodco.com

They chemically combine with the rust to effectively "kill" it and keep it from going further. The coatings can be painted over.

Walt

Tue May 29, 2007 9:17 am

Tim,

Cool project! 8)

There are certain products out there that an be used as a protectant against future corrosion. I don't remember the name of the stuff off the top of my head but I use a sealer on some of my ball turret parts that are rusted. Once I have all the rust sanded off I apply this sealer which looks like white paint. The stuff takes about a day to dry and when it does, the stuff turns black. You can then prime right over it and paint it.

Check out your local hardware store...they should carry the stuff and similar chemical sealants.

Good luck on the project!

John

derust

Tue May 29, 2007 9:20 am

Home and hardware stores sell a rust remover, sort of a jellied acid. I've not tried it. First if you have acess to a electric rotary wire brush wheel I'd just buff off as much as you can, with Safety Glasses, then try the jelly. Make sure to rinse and dry it good before the Rustoleum or other primer and epoxy paint.

Tue May 29, 2007 9:38 am

http://www.ospho.com/ I use this all the time for projects. There is a list at the bottom of the page where you can get it.

Tim

Tue May 29, 2007 9:47 am

Looks like it's off a A4 Skyhawk
Chuck

Re: derust

Tue May 29, 2007 9:49 am

Bill Greenwood wrote:Home and hardware stores sell a rust remover, sort of a jellied acid. I've not tried it. First if you have acess to a electric rotary wire brush wheel I'd just buff off as much as you can, with Safety Glasses, then try the jelly. Make sure to rinse and dry it good before the Rustoleum or other primer and epoxy paint.


I'm also using a mask, try to keep any lead out of my system that might be in the older layers of paint. :?

Thanks for the help.


Nathan
It is off an A-4 Skyhawk. It was being used (along with several others) as a driveway marker. it was set in concrete, which was knocked off before given to me. Given not liberated for the record. :lol:

Tim

Tue May 29, 2007 10:05 am

I had one just like that, only in much better shape.
I wish I still had it, but I gave it away.


Don't worry! I'm not insane!
A good friend flew over 150 missions in Viet Nam in Skyhawks off the Hancock.
He has all his stuff, great photos, but NO Tailhook!
I really had to give it to him!
I thought he was going to jump out of his skin when I told him he could have it. The hook now has the perfect home, hanging over the bar in his house, now a prized and meaningful possesion!
Good luck with the painting Tim.
Jerry

Tue May 29, 2007 11:27 am

This product is awesome at converting rusting left behind after sanding or blasting. It will convert what ever remains providing there is no places to trap air or moisture.

I have use this successfull in auto restoration as well as other projects.

Just be careful as its phosphoric acid.

http://www.sem.ws/msds_download.php?lang=CDEN&ID=173

enjoy!

t~

Tue May 29, 2007 12:16 pm

Approach this restoration like a classic car restorer would:

1) Chemically strip the old paint to eliminate lead-filled dust completely.

2) Have the part bead-blasted to remove the heavy rust.

3) Treat the part with POR15 or Ospho to seal the metal.

4) Have the part powdercoated. (it's not all that expensive!)

Cheers!

Sat Jun 02, 2007 3:10 pm

Here is an update on my project. Thanks for the help, I might need it later if the rust cames back but I needed to work within my budget this round, which is not very much mind you.

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More shots here:
http://rides.webshots.com/album/559284225HQbTwn

So I re-sanded it and put a few layers of primer on, then white paint. I gave that a few days to dry, while I tried to figure out what the "right" amount of Black Bands belonged on the hook. I figured out it was normal for 7 black bands. So after a bit of math I marked out 4.5 inches and taped it up and sprayed the black areas. I still have a few spots to touch up but I'm very happy with how it turned out. My wife, Kelly, even thinks it looks good (and she has not seen it finished yet). She was not really too happy when it was given to me, she thought it was just a large piece of junk.

Tim

Sun Jun 03, 2007 10:20 am

The hook looks beautiful Tim. If I didn't know any better I'd think it was NOS! :wink:

John

Re: derust

Sun Jun 03, 2007 1:56 pm

Bill Greenwood wrote:Home and hardware stores sell a rust remover, sort of a jellied acid. I've not tried it. First if you have acess to a electric rotary wire brush wheel I'd just buff off as much as you can, with Safety Glasses, then try the jelly. Make sure to rinse and dry it good before the Rustoleum or other primer and epoxy paint.


I agree with Bill on this one,

The rust remover jelly I think he is referring to is called Naval Jelly. The last time I used it is a thick, pinkish jelly which can burn the C@@P out of your skin if you don't take precautions such as gloves and other. Think of it like a REAL nasty paint stripper for removing rust. AND DO NOT TRY TO WIRE BRUSH THIS STUFF WHILE IT IS APPLIED TO THE PART, because all that will do is fling it all around the place. It is mostly used, at least what I've used it for anyway, is rust stain remover out of porcelain.

But, may I make a suggestion ?

IF, you have access to a sandblaster or glass bead blaster, I believe you would be better served to use something like that for several reasons. First, this will likely (?) never see the tail end of an aircraft again, let alone have to make arresting wire traps again. Second, the blasting process itself will remove any obvious corrosion/rust issues you see, right down into the pitting, however much there may be of it. After blasting, air blow the dust off and then wipe it down with a good solvent that will not "wick" water to the metal surface. Acetone or MEK...either IF you can find is probably best. Then all you have to do is spray on a good top coat or two of primer or Rustoleum and repaint it to fit your needs and color spec's.

For the most part, you can buy Naval Jelly, Acetone, or even MEK in small amount at say an ACE Hardware store. But since the EPA has really cracked down on these solvents you may have to look around alot to find it.

Sound like a plan ?

Just my 2 cents worth

Paul
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