Warbird Information Exchange

Folks:
I was wondering if anyone knows any other alternatives to forming a bulkhead other than this:

http://gunsight.jp/b/1/Fighter%20Factory-015.htm

A guy in the EAA told me these's a litle hand held device which will do the trick too. Any other ideas?

The end result is this:

http://gunsight.jp/b/1/Fighter%20Factory-016.htm

Sure would like to have that stretcher press in my shop.... You can form them in the old fashioned way....hammering around a form and using shrinkers and stretchers to get the correct profiles. Finnish with planisher and then heat treat...Lots of parts done that way even today. It's starting to become a lost art. There are a couple of places that offer some small group instruction on the basics of hand forming.

I manufacture parts for various A/C.What do you need? Maybe I can help.The stretcher is sweeeeeeeet.

I might be talkin' to you soon! For now, I'd like to try it myself.

There are two ways to do , I think the stretcher with a sweep, ot using T-0, heat treating, and then quenching.

What would you charge to do a bulkhead like the one shown in the photo?

Thanks

I'd start looking at Aircraft Spruce's catalog(www.aircraftspruce.com) or going to the auto spectrum, such as the restoration supply places, such as Eastwood Company. They have a lot of items directed towards auto sheet metal which could easily be used(and usually is) for aircraft fabrication.

Robbie
A&P
KC2TYV

You have to start with a thicker material than you need with a strecher as you have to polish out the strecher teeth marks.. I like using the hydro form and drop forge.

I agree with Broken Wrench however a more cost effective way would be to make a negative out of maple and beat your "O" material around the negative.

You have to start with a thicker material than you need with a strecher as you have to polish out the strecher teeth marks.. I like using the hydro form and drop forge.

I don't think this is a problem. If the "teeth marks" are at the end where the machine connects, then I would think that you simply cut 1-2" from each end. I think the real problem is the cost of the stretcher machine.

Does anyone know the name of the plastic that you mix and pour into a bulkhead / circumferintual and it gets rock hard and you then pop it out and use it in a hydroform.???? I have used the plastic that is already hard and had to be cut to shape.

Broken-Wrench wrote:Does anyone know the name of the plastic that you mix and pour into a bulkhead / circumferintual and it gets rock hard and you then pop it out and use it in a hydroform.???? I have used the plastic that is already hard and had to be cut to shape.

RPFEM

Tuff Cast and #709 are other possibilities... Any of the two part acrylic resins could work too if you support the die well enough.

Does anyone know the name of the plastic that you mix and pour into a bulkhead / circumferintual and it gets rock hard and you then pop it out and use it in a hydroform.???? I have used the plastic that is already hard and had to be cut to shape.

Now that's a pretty cool idea. You can even use it as a mold ant put T-0 in, heat and quench. Very brilliant![/quote]

Second question .. Has anyone tried to beat / form 2024-0 around plastic / resin forms... I never tried that but wish I would have..?????

Broken-Wrench wrote:Second question .. Has anyone tried to beat / form 2024-0 around plastic / resin forms... I never tried that but wish I would have..?????

I've seen it done with quickset.

Hammerforming or rolling around a die might be the way..Had similar dramas with the Spitfire frame cappings.