Natural metal finish

[WIXerGreg]

I'm wanting to try something different for natural metal finish than just the old rattle can silver. I know there are a bunch of different products and techniques out there. I don't plan to get too crazy at first with different panels and such, I just want to look a little more like aluminum. What do you guys use? What would you recommend for someone with mediocre skill and patience?

[Second Air Force]

I use BareMetal Foil with good results, mixed with Testors Metalizer and Alclad brand products. I did a little "how-to" here a while back:
http://warbirdinformationexchange.org/p ... c&start=30
I'll be using the BareMetal method on the Y1B-17--providing I ever get it to that point!

The best thing I can say to do is get a kit that you can practice on and try different methods 'till you find the one you get the best results with.

Scott

[Zachary]

I suggest you check out this website - lots of good info on metallic acrylics and enamels:

http://www.hawkeyeshobbies.com/

Zack

[k5083]

One easy thing to try is polishing the rattle can silver with a buffing wheel in your rotary tool. It doesn't look as real as foil or Metalizer, but the difference compared to the straight paint is surprising.

August

[Steve Nelson]

I've heard great things about Alclad II. I have a couple bottles, but haven't tried it yet. In the past I've airbrushed Floquil Bright Silver with good results.

SN

[Second Air Force]

I went into the modeling room and found the other material I'd used. It's SnJ Enamel. Here's a couple of websites that explain the process:
http://www.hawkeyeshobbies.com/
http://www.skywriters.net/snj.htm

I used the first-generation SnJ on the F-89 and on a few spots of the Carswell B-24 and it worked quite well. Alclad and Metalizer also work very well. Surface preparation and cleanliness are the key to good results with any method.

One thing to remember when you're using these metalizer-type paints is that some of them are lacquer based (or at least they used to be, it's been a few years since I finished a model) and are a bit hot on bare plastic surfaces. Another thing to pre-plan is any kind of camouflage, such as the black belly or anti-glare panels. I've always painted the "normal" paint on the areas required before doing the NMF. Fabric flight controls look best (my opinion) by using Testors Metalizer non-buffing aluminum.

Keep the ideas and methods coming, guys and gals.

Scott

[Garth]

I've heard great things about Alclad II. I have a couple bottles, but haven't tried it yet. In the past I've airbrushed Floquil Bright Silver with good results.

SN

I've been using Alclad II for a couple years now, on/off as I get into the habit of using it. By far my preference is for "Airframe Aluminum" - seems to be the most forgiving of the range in producing as close to a nat metal finish as possible.

Key though is getting the undercoat/base right. Spraying Alclad, which is a lacquer, onto bare plastic is pretty risky - it's hot and will act as a solvent if given half a chance. I've played with a variety of bases: Future (tends to produce duller-looking finishes), decanted gloss black Krylon (requires more elbow grease to polish up) and heavily thinned Model Master gloss black (works about the best of all, but need to be careful to build up the gloss finish in very light mist coats).

Couple helpful sites below:

http://www.swannysmodels.com/Alclad.html

and

http://fp.enter.net/~floch1/models/alcladthoughts.htm

[WIXerGreg]

I tried a few different things and finally decided to give the BareMetal Foil a shot. The stuff is awesome! I was intimidated to try it but it's not that hard to work with at all. It took a few hours to apply, but I would surely get faster and do a better job after I got a couple more under my belt. I would recommend the foil to anybody!

This is the Tamiya 1/72 scale P-47D, which I was also impressed with after some of the stuff I've built lately.

[Second Air Force]

I'm glad the foil method is working for you!

As you said, it gets easier to use the more time you spend with it. And for everyone else, make sure the foil is fresh--it loses some of its adhesion if it sits on the shelf for several years.

Good job,
Scott

[Second Air Force]

I apologize for not sharing this link to our friend Mgawa's website. We've started a NMF "how-to" and tips thread here:
http://www.letletlet-warplanes.com/foru ... -finishes/
I've already learned new methods and materials and we've really just gotten started.

Scott

[WIXerGreg]

Thanks for the link Scott! I'll definitely follow that thread too. The next two kit's I'm planning on doing are a 1/48 B-24 and a 1/72 B-29 and they'll both be natural metal too.

Your B-24 looks great! When you alternate the foil and paint between panels is there any visible difference in thickness between the foil and the paint? If you just feather the edge of the foil with an ultra fine sanding stick will it lay down thin enough at the edge to not be noticable?

Greg

[Second Air Force]

Greg,

As long as you use the "standard" Chrome BareMetal product the thickess is negligible. The Ultra Bright Chrome seems to be more brittle and the film is thicker, thus might be noticeable. One area where things get tricky is camouflage demarkations. If the model has anti-glare panels and hard-edged camo (like the Carswell B-24) you must plan carefully and mask the paint line very carefully. Then paint the camo, not too heavy, just enough to cover properly. The final step is to apply the foil and trim it very delicately along the paint line. The masked paint line will be just visible enough to guide you with the Xacto knife. On the other hand, if the camo is feather edged, you should be able to airbrush it on after applying the foil. Every model and paint scheme gives you a different challenge, thus the pre-planning that goes into a NMF project.

In fact, you can make the foil work to your advantage when replicating panel lines if you are careful in matching the seams perfectly. A good example is the overlapping skin strips on the forward fuselage of the B-17. I'm planning on removing all panel lines from the YB project and using strips of foil to replicate the panels of the original.

Scott

[WIXerGreg]

In fact, you can make the foil work to your advantage when replicating panel lines if you are careful in matching the seams perfectly.

I think I decided that's what I'll do on my next project. I'm going to pick up some more of the regular chrome and a sheet of matte aluminum and do individual panels on my B-29.

I found a site that sells the foil a little cheaper than directly from the Bare-Metal site, and they're a few dollars cheaper on shipping too. I don't know if you've ordered any direct from Bare-Metal lately but it was almost $9 to ship a single sheet when I ordered.

Greg

[The Inspector]

Many moons ago, FINESCALE MODELLER did an article by a guy who I believe is now dead, that showed how he got a chrome finish on a 767 AMERICAN AIRLINES kit using sprayed paint and a piece of wool as a buffing tool-ask friends who might have this article it's at least 15 years ago-

[Second Air Force]

I believe I have that issue of Finescale Modeler, or at least remember the article. If I recall he sprayed on a coat of clear and applied aluminum pigment of some sort while the clear was still just slightly tacky, then buffed with the wool to get the proper sheen. I do remember his finished model was very impressive.

Scott