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Classic Wings Magazine WWII Naval Aviation Research Pacific Luftwaffe Resource Center
When Hollywood Ruled The Skies - Volumes 1 through 4 by Bruce Oriss


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 1:55 pm 
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We discovered we have the early style, narrower L-5 wheel rims on our L-5G project. I am looking for TWO Hayes Industries rims model D-3-479. If anyone has any or knows of where some may be, plese let me know. These rims are keeping us from flying!

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 4:45 pm 
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Taylor
I know they are not original, but what about putting some clevelands on there and have some real brakes ?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 4:54 pm 
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That's something I may do later once I've got the "Judging Year" done. I wasnt the plane Mil-Spec for Midland, Sun-N-Fun, and OSH and then I may put the "safety" mods on the airplane, like clevelands, alternator, etc. I may not though.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 5:57 pm 
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when it comes to safety mods, I don't think they would gig you for it. kind of like putting Redlines on a T-6 or P-63 brakes on a 51.


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 Post subject: Wheels
PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 6:04 pm 
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Could you remind us what size the wheels are and what type brakes the L5 has? I know I have an extra set of Hays wheels, but I have to look to see what size they are.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 10:55 am 
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The tires on the later model L-5 tires are 8.50 - 6 tires on Hayes D3-479 rims. I dont have an example of what I'm looking for, so I can't really say any detail beyond that, but if you look around the outer edge of the rim the company part # casting # and date are all there.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 8:06 am 
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Hi there.

To join in , I am in the very early stages of restoring an L-5 to flying condition, talking about brakes, with regard to Cleveland conversion, what part number should I look for, for use on the L-5.

Jacob

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Stinson L-5 Sentinel VW-1493 , probably USAAF 42-99252 ( No USAAF ID plate found yet )


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 10:41 am 
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As far as I know, the Cleveland kit uses unoriginal rims. I've never put a set on any of my L-5s, but I can put you in touch with those who have. Check PM in a few minutes.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 12:03 pm 
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Hi Taylor.

Thank you for the speedy answer, will get in contact with Mark right away, it is just to start looking.

The L-5 has not been flying since 1971 and been stored in the attic of an old barn since 1983 , so I assume
the rubber blatter in the original brakes are gone and secondly I have heard they are not really effective.

I have been in contact with James Gray regarding history on mine and contacted USAF, but sadly the records do
not contain much and there is a big from 1946 until the mid 1960's where it turns up in Germany as glider tug.

Nice collection of aircraft , you have , envy you

Jacob

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DHC-1 Chipmunk C1-0108 former Royal Danish Air Force P-129 , now OY-ATO
Stinson L-5 Sentinel VW-1493 , probably USAAF 42-99252 ( No USAAF ID plate found yet )


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 12:35 pm 
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Thanks. You'll love the L-5. Great airplane. Fun to fly, great climb performance, and the pushrod control linkage makes it super responsive. The best L-bird, in my opinion. The original expander tube brakes work fine, they just don't have the grip of Clevelands and they tend to fade if you use them a lot. Plus, bladders are getting harder to come by. Keep us posted on the progress of your project. I assume you have an observer (or is it an ambulance)? What's the condition of the wood in the wings and tail? Be sure to check to see if it is casein glue (milky white/tan color) or resorcinol glue (dark grey/black color). If it is casein, you need to rebuild that component. If resorcinol, check the integrity of the component thoroughly, but you may be able to use those components without re-gluing. I would start working on the engine early. You never know what you're going to need to replace and O-435-1 parts are few and far between. If you are putting Clevelands on it, I would also suggest going to a Scott tailwheel. It is done with minor modifications. The original Lake State tailwheels have a brass cone that wears and causes a shimmy. Also, buy a couple fuel selectors because the corks tend to be bad in originals and it may take a few to find a good one. DO NOT turn it without soaking it first. You'll likely damage the cork. Let me know if I can help in any way.

TS

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 1:44 pm 
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If anyone would know try Jay Wisler...

Jim

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